The train from Charing Cross down to the coast is always heaving with passengers at the end of the day. In fact, there are times when it's standing room only for the first two stops of Waterloo Station and London Bridge, where passengers transfer to other destinations.
I could see how exhausted the Tutti Twins were. Luigi’s head was cocked back with his mouth open and there were occasional snorts that broke the silence among the other snoozing passengers. Alfredo had his face flush against the window. But his head was pressed so hard against the glass that his cheek remained stuck like a suction device, causing his left eye to become completely covered by his cheek. His mouth was open as well and there was a small rivulet rolling down his chin onto his shoulder. It was a lovely sight! NOT!
As the train descends the gradient towards the Sussex coastline, discharging passengers along the way, it begins to pick up speed. By the time we leave Stonegate we’re moving along at quite a clip. I phoned our housekeeper, Mrs Higgins, to ask whether I needed to pick anything up from the shops. No, all was ready. Mrs Higgins had prepared one of her signature dishes. ‘Rather than signature, she probably means warrant,’ I thought to myself, - ‘Death Warrant!’
Mrs Higgins is... well... how shall I put this delicately and with all the affection and probity it deserves … She’s a cantankerous, crabby, old goat! That’s not to say I don’t love her to pieces. Indeed I do, but my oh my can she ever cause the walls of a church to bleed! If I say ‘good morning’ to her, Mrs Higgins’ immediate retort is ‘what’s good about it?’ And if I ever dare do anything outside of my heretofore established rules of the house, I’ll be pummelled into a whimpering mass of self-pity. Never-EVER tread on Mrs Higgins’ turf, regardless of how badly it’s done.

I think part of the problem is that Mrs Higgins still lives in the kinetic days of the war. Without a doubt it was a terrible time and people went to bed truly not knowing whether they would awaken again. The bombing sorties from Germany came day and night and virtually every Londoner of that era has their own story of fear, bravery, and excitement!
The degree of that excitement had a unique patina to it which in one way or another affected the lives of everyone in this nation. Married at 17, Mrs Higgins kissed her husband of 10 weeks goodbye as he boarded a troop train at Victoria Station, on the 4th of December 1944 – destination "classified."
Six weeks later a grim cadre of officers arrived at her door to say her husband was missing and presumed to have died on the beaches of Normandy. Mrs Higgins never remarried and openly acknowledges that she always remained in hope that one day he would return. His body, as with so many of the ten thousand allied troops who died or disappeared that day, was never found.
It’s a bit of a mystery as to how Mrs Higgins came to the vicarage. I used to visit her – always with a bit of trepidation. She was (and is) so cantankerous and tetchy that her vitriol is heaped upon anyone who dares fall within her cross-hairs. Just to calm myself I wrote about her in one of my blogs. (It didn’t help)!


A number of years ago Mrs Higgins had a rather nasty fall. It was just before Christmas. On the morning of Christmas Eve I received a call from the nursing station at our local hospital. I was anticipating the call was either going to be that someone had passed away, was about to pass away, or yet another passionate plea for me to come do something about Mrs Higgins, as she had once again traumatised the nursing team.
But this call took the biscuit. The treacle sweet voice at the other end of the phone was calmly enquiring as to what time I was planning to come collect Mrs Higgins. I was certain her doctor had told me she was going to have to stay a few more days, especially as the home visit nursing team were already overbooked. How wrong I was.
Apparently Mrs Higgins had convinced the doctor to discharge her into our care, leading him to believe that all was tickety-boo, and we had already planned to come collect her, and have her as our guests over Christmas week! The nursing staff had packed her things, hauled, or pushed her into a wheelchair and rolled her out of the ward, quicker than placing an order with Jack-in-The-Box. And she was wreaking havoc on the receptionist…oh, and by the way…the doctor left a message saying he had left for Christmas and was unreachable! Mon Dieu. Une telle horreur nous arrive!
The problem is that Mrs Higgins never left us. Well, she did eventually go home. But several days later she just arrived unannounced. As I opened the door, she pushed me aside, headed for the kitchen, and jumped into a diatribe of ridicule and denunciations for my failure to empty the dish rack within ten minutes; then it was the tumble dryer – overloaded, then on to the bathroom for a vigorous inspection of our toothbrushes, to make certain the bristles were fresh and firm. And on it went. Like a pernicious rash, despite all our efforts she just keeps coming back. And for this delightful pleasure of self-flagellation we get to pay her.
We’ve come to look at Mrs Higgins’ cooking with the same suspicious eye as her housekeeping skills. She always tells us they’re recipes from the war. But her cooking tastes more as if it were cooked during the war. So we try to avoid it at all costs.
Having been up in London, this time it was inevitable that there would be something prepared. This is the ruse
she uses each time she goes on one of her reconnaissance missions in the house. She rummages through everything in search of evidence. I’m not exactly certain what the evidence is that she’s seeking. But I’ve heard her counting our underwear on Fridays, presumably in the hopes that she could spread gossip that we don’t change our underwear every day, or disrupting my sock drawer on her obsessive determination to find love letters she alleges I’ve received from Mrs McGillicutty – the chair of the church flower committee. Mrs McGillicutty is 87 and Mrs Higgins has it on high authority that Mrs McGillicutty is a tart!
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Mrs Higgins accused Mrs McGillicutty of carving rude characters into my butter patty during the Harvest Festival dinner last October. And she is certain that the tragically distasteful event last summer was a direct result of Mrs McGillicutty doing the fandango in the choir room, bumping into Mr Oppenheimer and causing his bag to burst. It’s something no one even cares to remember. But alas, Mrs Higgins is certain I have a secret collection of Elvis Presley 8-track tapes that I play late into the night when no one is watching. And she is convinced Mrs McGillicutty is there as well!
Last summer she put an entire box of starch in the washer containing only my socks and boxer shorts (
something I'm sure you needed to know – the vicar wears boxers). There was so much starch that on Sunday, when I escaped from the searing summer heat into the coolness of the church, the starch immediately dried as I sat listening to the choir. But when I stood up I let out a yelp so loud the choir thought I was trying to hit a Haley Westenra High C!

So tonight, whilst I make apologies for having to rearrange my sock drawer, the Tutti Twins are going to enjoy (be subjected to), Mrs Higgins’ Spotted Dick. Another uniquely British concoction; this dish certainly has its renewed roots from the war. It’s actually a steamed pudding made with suet and dried sultanas or raisins.
Mrs Higgins’ Spotted Dick
What you’ll need: A medium mixing bowl, a mixing jug, a pudding basin (pan) and a steamer basket. Wax paper and some string.
2 3/4 cups of plain sifted flour
1/4 cup of soft butter
3 tsp baking powder
3/4 cup of shredded suet
1/2 cup of caster or extra fine sugar
1/2 cup of currants or raisins
1/3 cup of milk
1/3 cup of double cream or whipping cream
Finely grated zest and juice of 2 lemons
custard or clotted cream as a compliment
1. Soften half the butter and use to grease a 1.4 litre pudding basin.
2. Combine the flour, baking powder, suet, sugar and currants in a large bowl, mixing well.
3. Melt the remaining butter and stir into the flour mixture.
4. Stir in the lemon juice and zest.
5. Combine the milk and cream in a small jug. Slowly stir enough into the mixture to bring it to a dropping consistency.
6. Pour the mixture into the pudding basin. Cover with a double layer of grease-proof (wax) paper (make a small pleat in the middle to allow the pudding to expand), tie the wax paper in place with string around the lip of the pudding pan.
7. Place the basin in a steamer basket set over boiling water. Cover and steam for about 1 - 1 1/2 hours until cooked. Check the water level now and again to make sure the water level stays high, topping it up with boiling water from the kettle.
8. Serve with custard or, if you're feeling wicked, a big dollop of clotted cream.
Rantings:
This is just for the novitiate cook - What is suet? As I mentioned, this is certainly an old war-time recipe. During the war Britain became incredibly creative in the things we used for cooking and baking. Suet is raw beef or mutton fat. Pork fat is called lard. Chicken fat is called schmaltz. In British supermarkets dehydrated suet packets are available. I hope they are in America as well. We also have a vegetarian suet made from palm oil combined with rice flour. It looks quite similar to shredded beef suet.
In addition to wax paper I wrap my pudding in a fresh tea towel. The steam permeates the cloth and it helps retain the moisture of the pudding. This is entirely my personal preference. But I’d catch the ‘wrath of Higgins’ if I were to do such a thing in her presence. So only on her days off! (Long Live Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Weekends!)
More Rantings:
The origins of Spotted Dick are traced back to the early 1800’s. It’s a bit of a challenge to fully follow the etymology of the word but it has appeared to be part of the rhyming Cockney slang from ‘pudding.’ There are many other words using ‘dick’ in a similar way, such as a hard cheese with treacle added, it became treacle dick. Prior to this the recipe began as a pastry rolled onto a flat sheet with pieces of fruit such as plums which gave it the name ‘spotted dog.’ And in Ireland, it began as ‘Railway Bread’ or ‘Spotted Dog’ when it was made with a non-yeast bread. The Irish used baking soda and called the outcome ‘soda bread.’
I have my own opinion as the ones I’ve just shared don’t sound particularly feasible. Personally I believe my idea hold much more credence.
The word ‘dick’ was an abbreviation for ‘dicky’ which in the early 1800’s was a faux shirt front worn by gentlemen. London in particular that it was essential for men to change shirts several times each day. The soot and foul air permeated the city. The dicky (or dickey) was one of the first successful commercial applications of celluloid. The rigid white plastic shirt front even came with miniature onyx buttons, which closely resembled sultanas or raisins. I feel it’s far more logical that the kitchen servants observed that the dessert they prepared resembled those starched shirts with the small dark bits throughout – also similar to the cinder pieces that pelted the white shirts of rail travellers who dared put the windows down. Every shirt would have been pelted with multitudes of small black bits of coal cinders – again offering a logical (IMHO) similarity. But then I’m just a dumb priest!